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Remote Washington restaurant is one of best in world
The boat makes the six-minute crossing as many as three times an hour between 6 a.m. and midnight. Lummi Island is 9 miles long and nowhere more than 1½ miles On Seattle Craigslist, he answered an ad for a tiny island restaurant that was looking
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-- zz22 LUMMI ISLAND, Wash. — The most acclaimed restaurant in the Pacific Northwest is not in Portland or Seattle, but on a remote island in the Salish Sea just 30 miles south of the Canadian border. The Willows Inn was honored in 2015 as the Northwest’s best restaurant by the James Beard Foundation, just a year after its young chef, Blaine Wetzel, was honored as Beard’s national “rising star chef of the year. ” The New York Times labeled the Willows Inn as “One of the 10 Restaurants (in the world) Worth a Plane Ride,” high praise for a destination that requires a drive and a ferry ride even after you get off the plane. When my close friend Bruce Legas, a Seattle-area sports-bar owner, invited me to join him last month on a Lummi Island trip with his sister and brother-in-law, Laurie and Lonnie Schmidt, I jumped at the chance. It required an eight- to nine-hour drive (barring urban rush-hour slowdowns) from Bend through Bellingham, the nearest city to the inn, along with meals and overnight lodging on the island. The Lummi Island portion itself cost me about $500. But the Willows’ isolation would make it foolish to plan otherwise. And it’s so difficult to get a table at the 25-seat restaurant — they are booked months in advance — that I wanted to truly savor the experience. Legas, the Schmidts and I shared a spacious three-bedroom cabin a half mile down West Shore Drive from the inn at Loganita, adjacent to the vegetable and herb garden. Our view across Rosario Strait was dominated by Orcas Island, largest of the San Juan archipelago. Eight such out-buildings are managed by the Willows, which has another eight individual units on the main property along with the kitchen and dining room. I arrived mid-afternoon, having spent the previous day in Bellingham, a university town of similar size to Bend. A 20-mile drive west, through the Lummi Indian Reservation, leads to the Gooseberry Point launch dock of the tiny Whatcom Chief ferry. The boat makes the six-minute crossing as many as three times an hour between 6 a. m. and midnight. Lummi Island is 9 miles long and nowhere more than 1½ miles wide. A mere 816 people live here, a number that is proudly announced to new arrivals on a hand-painted sign opposite the general store. Most of them live in the rural acreage on the northern half of the island. heavily forested Lummi Peak, 1,665 feet high, dominates the southern portion. A chef’s life. But this is the culinary domain of chef Wetzel, a 30-year-old wunderkind. Mild-mannered, self-assured, boyish-looking, he was only 24 when he arrived on this island in the summer of 2010, ready not to change the world but to develop a cuisine that would become synonymous with Puget Sound. He has succeeded by sourcing nearly everything that he serves — the oysters and prawns, the dandelion stems and spruce tips, the nori seaweed and fern fiddleheads — from the local land and surrounding waters. Born and raised in Olympia, Wetzel seems destined to become a great chef. He grew up next to an oyster farm, he told me when I sought him out in the kitchen on the afternoon of my arrival. His family made a habit of foraging trips for mushrooms and wild berries. Wetzel said he was 14 when he got his first restaurant job. He was 18 when he went to Scottsdale, Arizona, for culinary school, and met a Paraguayan woman, Raquel Ruiz, who would become his life partner. After stops in Las Vegas and Carmel, California, he took a chance on the tiny Noma restaurant in Copenhagen, which was attracting worldwide attention with its Swedish chef, René Redzepi, who himself was then in his early 30s. Blaine was hired for... “Scandinavia presented me with a whole new vocabulary of wild plants and ocean creatures like sea urchins and decades-old clams,” he wrote in his book, “Sea and Smoke. ” “Working there helped me define what I wanted to be doing, and the spirit I wanted to do it with. But he didn’t want to do it without Raquel, he said, who by now was running the front of the house at L’Auberge Carmel. On Seattle Craigslist, he answered an ad for a tiny island restaurant that was looking for a chef for six months. Our prix-fixe meal was 20 courses of seafood and vegetables, served over about 3½ hours in a single seating. The first four courses were served on the inn’s deck that faces toward Orcas: a crispy seaweed crepe, peppery and paper-thin, accompanied by salty char roe. savory doughnuts, stuffed with smoked black cod sprinkled with nori and served with a house-made vermouth.
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